2011 Honda CR-V

Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption – 2010-2011 Honda CR-V

by
“This site contains affiliate links for which OEMDTC may be compensated”

NHTSA ID Number: 10108323

Manufacturer Communication Number: A12-089

Summary

SERVICE BULLETIN – AMERICAN HONDA IS EXTENDING THE WARRANTY COVERAGE ON THE PISTON RINGS AND PISTONS FOR 2010–11 CR-V 2WD AND 4WD TO 8 YEARS FROM THE ORIGINAL DATE OF PURCHASE OR 125,000 MILES, WHICHEVER COMES FIRST.

 

A12-089
March 31, 2017
06118 Version 7                     

Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption

Supersedes 12-089, Sticking Rings Resulting in Unusually High Engine Oil Consumption, dated April 20, 2016; see Revision Summary

 

AFFECTED VEHICLES

Year Model Trim VIN Range
2010–11 CR-V  ALL Check the iN VIN status eligibility

 

REVISION SUMMARY

Under REQUIRED MATERIALS, the oil was changed to Full Synthetic Engine Oil, P/N 08798-9063.

 

BACKGROUND

American Honda is extending the warranty coverage on the Piston Rings and Pistons for 2010–11 CR-V 2WD and 4WD to 8 years from the original date of purchase or 125,000 miles, whichever comes first.

The warranty extension does not apply to any vehicle that has ever been declared a total loss or sold for salvage by a financial institution or insurer, or has a branded, or similar tittle under any state’s law.  To check for vehicle eligibility, you must do a VIN status inquiry.

 

CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION

Owners of affected vehicles will receive a notification of this warranty extension.  Do an iN VIN status inquiry to make sure the vehicle is shown as eligible.

 

SYMPTOM

The engine oil level is low on the dipstick, and the oil warning light may come on in rare high oil consumption situations.

 

POSSIBLE CAUSES

Under certain specific circumstances the engine may create deposits on the oil control rings, which may lead to increased oil consumption when all of the following conditions occur simultaneously on a regular and prolonged basis:

  • The engine is cold (not warmed up to operating temperature)
  • Hard acceleration while the engine is cold
  • The fuel used has an unusually high concentration of particles – Honda recommends using Top Tier gas that contains detergents to prevent deposits. For more information about Top Tier gas, go to www.toptiergas.com.

All these conditions happening at the same time is rare, but if they do, deposits may form over years of driving. If the oil control rings begin to stick because of the deposits, the customer may subsequently complain about excessive oil consumption.

 

CORRECTIVE ACTION

Do the procedure under DIAGNOSIS and based on your results, replace all of the engine pistons and piston rings if necessary.

Service Advisor: Talk to the customer about the many factors contributing to oil consumption. Remind him or her that with less frequent service intervals for modern engines, it’s not uncommon to add oil between services. Therefore, it’s a good idea to check the engine oil regularly (as recommended in the owner’s manual) and add oil as necessary.

 

PARTS INFORMATION

Part Name Part Number Quantity
BOLT, CONNECTING ROD (Up to 8 as required after measurements) 13204-RBB-004 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 8
BOLT, WASHER, 11×176 (Up to 10 as required after measurements) 90005-RNA-A01 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 10
BOLT, FLANGE 12X40 (Side engine mount) 95701-12040-08 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 2
Drain plug washer 94109-14000 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 1
GASKET, Cylinder Head 12251-R40-A01 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 1
GASKET, SET 12030-R44-A00 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 1
GASKET, Exhaust Flexible ( Catalytic to A pipe) 18229-SWA-305  1
HondaBond HT ( 1 tube repairs 5 vehicles ) 08718-0004  1
Honda Coolant Type 2 ( 1 gallon will be used to top off 2 vehicles ) OL999-9011 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 1
Honda Motor Oil, Full Synthetic 0W-20 ( 6 quarts of oil to beused ) 08798-9063 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 6
Nut, Flange (Side engine mount) 90213-S5A-003  1
Oil Filter 15400-PLM-A02 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 1
O-Ring ( At oil pump ) 91301-R40-A01  1
O-Ring, Chain Case 91302-PNA-004 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 1
Oil Seal, Control Valve ( O-ring at VTC Valve assembly ) 15832-PNA-023eBay 1
Packing A, Intake Manifold 17115-R40-A01  4
Piston SET A (STD) (Dealer must determine how many to order) 13010-R40-A00 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 4
Piston SET B (STD) (Dealer must determine how many to order) 13020-R40-A00 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 4
Ring Set (STD) 13011-R44-A01 Warranty Extension: Sticking Rings Resulting in High Engine Oil Consumption - 2010-2011 Honda CR-V | small light 4

 

TOOL INFORMATION

Part Name Part Number Quantity
Camshaft Lock Pin Set 07AAB-RWCA120eBay 1
Crank Pulley Holder 07AAB-RJAA100 1
Engine Hanger AART1256 1
Handle 6-25-660L 07JAB-001020BeBay 1
Gasket Remover/Pan Separator LIL50190 1
Piston Ring Expander Snap-On  PRS8 or equivalent 1
Piston Ring Compressor SCP1287 or equivalent 1
1/2 in. Drive Torque Angle Gauge BLMBLDAG001 or TA360 1

NOTE: These Items can be purchased through the Honda Tool & Equipment Program 888-424-6857.

 

DIAGNOSIS

  1. Do an engine oil consumption test. Refer to the Job Aid Engine Oil Consumption Test.
  2. Review the results of the engine oil consumption test.
  • Based on the test results, if the engine is consuming an unusually high amount of oil, contact your DPSM for approval, then go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
  • Based on the test results, if the engine is consuming a normal amount of engine oil, the vehicle is OK. Explain to the customer that the vehicle is OK, and that the consumption of oil is within a normal range.

NOTE: Remind the customer to regularly check the engine oil level every time they fill the fuel tank. Modern engines require less frequent oil changes, which may impact the amount of oil used between oil changes.

 

REPAIR PROCEDURE

This procedure is an outline form that you can also use as a checklist for the repair. For details on the procedures noted, refer to the appropriate service manual, or view them online.

Note: Disconnect TWC at the A-pipe at TWC.

 

NOTE:

  • Before starting work, make sure to order the correct number of “A” and “B” pistons. Refer to ORDERING PISTONS on page 31 of this bulletin.
  • Use fender covers to avoid damaging painted surfaces.
  • To avoid damaging the wires and terminals, unplug the wiring connectors carefully while holding the connector portion.
  • To avoid damaging the cylinder head, wait until the engine coolant temperature drops below 100°F (38°C) before loosening the cylinder head bolts. If needed, connect the HDS to the DLC, and monitor ECT SENSOR 1.
  • Mark all wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also, be sure that they do not contact any other wiring or hoses, or interfere with any other parts.
  1. Make sure that Service Bulletin 11-049, Product Update: Software Update to Improve Fuel Injector and VTC Timing is complete by checking the iN VIN status.

NOTE: If you do not confirm software update has been completed, your warranty claim could be debited.

  1. Put the vehicle on a lift.
  2. Relieve the fuel pressure.
  3. Do the battery terminal disconnection procedure.
  4. Drain the engine oil
  5. Drain the engine coolant.

NOTE: Use a clean container to recover coolant for re-use.

  1. Remove the drive belt.
  2. Remove the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold bracket lower bolt.

intake manifold bracket

 

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the two nuts or the bracket from the intake manifold.

  1. Unbolt TWC at the A-Pipe, leaving the TWC mounted to the cylinder head assembly.
  2. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum and EVAP canister hoses.

brake booster vacuum and EVAP canister hoses

 

  1. Remove the quick-connect fitting cover, then disconnect the fuel feed hose.

quick-connect fitting cover

 

  1. Disconnect the four fuel injector connectors, the control solenoid valve connectors, and disconnect the ground cables.

fuel injector connectors

 

  1. Remove the four bolts securing the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.

EVAP canister purge valve

 

  1. Disconnect the radiator hoses and the heater hoses. Disconnect the ATF warmer bypass hose (if equipped)

NOTE: The second radiator hose is connected to the thermostat and is not shown.

radiator hoses

 

  1. Remove the two bolts securing the connecting hose. Disconnect the water bypass hose.

water bypass hose

 

  1. Support the engine with a floor jack, then remove the right side engine mount.
  2. Remove the front cam chain cover and the cam chain.

front cam chain cover and the cam chain

 

  1. Use zip ties to hold the four intake rocker assemblies together to ease re-installation.

Use zip ties to hold the four intake rocker assemblies together

 

  1. To prevent damage to the camshafts, loosen the bolts, in sequence, two turns at a time. Remove the camshaft holder bolts, Remove the rocker arm assembly and both cam shafts.

NOTE: Bolt #1 is not on all engines.

loosen the bolts, in sequence

 

  1. To prevent warpage, loosen the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time; repeat the sequence until all the bolts are loosened, Remove the cylinder head bolts.

loosen the bolts, in sequence

 

  1. Remove the cylinder head with the catalytic converter attached.

NOTE: Be careful not to lose the lost motion springs.

Remove the cylinder head with the catalytic converter attached

 

  1. Raise the vehicle on the lift. Attach the engine hanger.
    • Attach the engine mount bracket to the engine block with two 10 mm spacers and two (10 mm diameter) bolts that are about 40 mm and 55 mm long.

NOTE: You can find spacers in the engine hanger kit.

engine mount bracket

 

engine hanger

 

  • Loop the wire around the engine mount bracket and attach the looped ends to the hook.
  • Raise the engine with a floor jack just enough to relieve the engine weight from the lower engine bracket. Tighten the hook so that when you lower the floor jack, the engine is suspended in place.
  1. Raise the vehicle on the lift so that you can move the axle out of the way.

lower control arm

 

 

  1. Remove the oil pan.

torque converter cover

 

lower torque rod

 

  • Loosen the mid-stiffener mounting bolt on both slides.

mid-stiffener mounting bolt

 

transmission jack

 

oil pan

 

  • Raise the engine as high as possible using the engine hanger hook.

NOTE:  The engine wobbles as it is being lifted, so make sure nothing is stressed or damaged such as the A/C lines or pump

power steering fluid line

 

oil pan

 

  1. To hold the balance shaft, insert a 6 mm (1/4in.) diameter long pin punch into the maintenance hole in the balance shaft holder and through the rear balancer shaft.

6 mm (1/4in.) diameter long pin punch

 

  1. Remove the cam chain and oil pump chain auto-tensioner.

oil pump chain auto-tensioner

 

  1. Loosen the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt.

oil pump sprocket

 

  1. Remove the oil pump sprocket and the oil pump.

oil pump sprocket and the oil pump

 

  1. Remove the baffle plate.

baffle plate

 

  1. Lower the vehicle to a comfortable working height, and place a clean shop towel around the cylinder wall to prevent debris from entering the coolant passage.
  2. Check the cylinder walls by rubbing your fingernail or a pencil with light pressure perpendicular to any vertical scratches that are in the cylinder bore.
  • If your fingernail or pencil does not catch on the scratches, the cylinder block is OK. Go to step 33.
  • If your fingernail or pencil catches on the scratches, go to step 32 to continue checking the cylinder block.

Check the cylinder walls

 

  1. Remove the piston from the scratched cylinder bore. Inspect the piston skirt for any scratches or damage that corresponds with the scratched cylinder bore.
  • If the piston skirt has deep scratches, or is damaged, and corresponds to the position of the bore scratches, replace the engine block. This bulletin no longer applies. You must obtain DPSM authorization and refer online to Engine Removal and Installation to reinstall the engine.
  • If the piston skirt has no damage, the cylinder block is OK; go to step 33.

piston skirt

 

  1. Remove the rod caps and the bearings.

NOTE:

  • Mark each rod cap and its corresponding rod with the cylinder number.
  • The existing markings refer to the size of the big end of the rod, not the number of the cylinder.

rod caps

 

  1. Use a wooden hammer handle to drive out each of the piston and connecting rod assemblies.

NOTE: Be careful not to damage the cylinder walls or the crankshaft when pushing out the pistons and the    connecting rod assemblies.

 

  1. Visually inspect all the connecting rod bearing for signs of damage.

NOTE: If your fingernail catches on a scratch or groove in the bearing, replace it. Pictured are normal reusable rod bearings after about 35,000 miles. Some discoloration is normal and does not require replacement.

connecting rod bearing

 

  1. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at points A and B.

each connecting rod bolt

 

  1. Calculate the difference in diameter between points A and B:
    • Point A – Point B = Difference in Diameter
    • Difference in Diameter Specification: 0 – 0.1 mm (0.004 in.)
    • If the difference in diameter is out of specification, replace the connecting rod bolt.

 

  1. Put on eye protection, then remove the snap rings from both sides of each piston. Start at the cutout in the piston pin Remove the snap rings carefully so they don’t go flying or get lost.

snap ring

 

  1. Put on gloves, heat the piston and the ends connecting rod to about 158°F (70°C), then remove the piston pin.

NOTE: The old piston, the pin, and the snap rings won’t be reused.

heat the piston and the ends connecting rod to about 158°F (70°C)

 

  1. Install a new piston pin snap ring on one side of a new piston.

piston pin snap ring

 

  1. Coat the piston pin bore in the piston, the bore in the connecting rod, and the piston pin with new engine oil.
  2. Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C).

Heat the piston to about 158°F (70°C)

 

  1. Assemble the piston and the connecting rod with the arrow and the embossed mark on the same side. Install the piston pin.

NOTE: When the piston and the rod end are heated properly, the piston pin should slide into position relatively easily. You will damage the piston if you try to use a hammer or a press to force the piston pin in.

Assemble the piston

 

  1. Install the remaining snap ring.
  2. Turn the snap ring in the ring grooves until the end gaps are positioned at the bottom of the piston.
  3. Repeat steps 39 through 46 for the remaining pistons.
  4. Using a piston ring expander, install the spacer and two oil rings. Then install the second ring and top ring with the manufacturing marks facing up. The second ring has a “2” followed by a letter or letters. The top ring has a “1” followed by a letter or letters.

NOTE: The new rings may not have the same manufacturing marks as the originals.

rings

 

  1. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind.
  1. Position the ring end gaps as shown.

Position the ring end gaps as shown

 

  1. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 1 and 4 are at bottom dead center (BDC).
  2. Remove the connecting rod cap to piston 1, and check that the bearing is securely in place.
  3. Apply new engine oil to the piston, the inside of the ring compressor, the cylinder bore, and the rod bearings
  4. Position the mark to face the cam chain end of the engine block.

mark

 

  1. Set the piston in the ring compressor, and position the piston in the cylinder noting the rod/cap marks that you made in step 34

ring compressor

 

  1. Set the ring compressor on the piston bore, then push the piston in with your hands.

ring compressor

 

  1. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-rod journal alignment before pushing the piston into place.
  2. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then install the connecting rod cap with the bearing. Torque the bolts to 41 N·m (30 lb-ft).
  3. Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 120°.

NOTE: If you tighten a rod bolt beyond the specified angle, remove it and repeat steps 58 and 59.  Do not loosen the bolt back to the specified angle.

Tighten the connecting rod bolts an additional 120°

 

  1. Repeat steps 47 through 58 for piston number 4.
  2. Rotate the crankshaft so that cylinders 2 and 3 are at bottom dead center (BDC).
  3. Repeat steps 47 through 58 for piston number 2 and 3.
  4. Rotate the crankshaft several times after all connecting rods have been installed to ensure that nothing is binding.
  5. Install the baffle plate, and torque the bolts to 12 N·m (8.7 lb-ft).
  6. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the engine block.

top dead center (TDC)

 

  1. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump mounting bolts (B) and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt (C), then loosely install the oil pump (D) with a new O-ring (E)
  1. Torque the oil pump mounting bolts and the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt according to figure shown.

oil pump

 

  1. Align the dowel pin (A) on the rear balancer shaft with the mark (B) on the oil pump.

TDC mark

 

  1. Install the oil pump chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored link plate (A) aligned with the TDC mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket.

TDC mark

 

  1. Set the oil pump sprocket on the oil pump chain with the punch mark aligned with the center of the colored link plates, then install the oil pump chain sprocket to the oil pump.

oil pump sprocket

 

  • Apply new engine oil to the threads of the oil pump sprocket mounting bolt, then install it and torque it to 44 N·m (33 lb-ft).
  1. Install the oil pump chain auto-tensioner, and torque the bolts to 12 N·m (8.7 lb-ft).
  2. Remove the 6 mm (1/4 in.) diameter long pin punch.
  3. Remove the 3.0 mm pin from the oil pump chain auto-tensioner.

3.0 mm pin

 

  1. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, the bolts, and the bolt holes.
  2. Clean and dry the oil pan mating surfaces.
  3. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0004, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, to the engine block mating surface of the oil pan and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.

NOTE:

  • Apply a 2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket along the broken line.
  • If more than 5 minutes have passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
  • Do not apply any sealant where the cam chain case is installed because the sealant will dry before you can reinstall the case.

2.5 mm (0.098 in) diameter bead of liquid gasket

 

  1. Install the oil pan to the engine block.
  1. Tighten the bolts in three steps. In the final step, torque all bolts, in sequence, to 12 N·m (9 lb-ft).

NOTE:

  • Install the three bolts on the end after installing the cam chain cover.
  • Wait at least 30 minutes after installing the cam chain case before filling the engine with oil.
  • Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the oil pan.

Tighten the bolts in three steps

 

  1. Install a new oil filter.
  1. Reinstall the clutch case cover and torque the bolts to 12 N·m (8.7 lb-ft). Reinstall the two bolts securing the oil pan to the transmission and torque them to 64 N·m (47 lb-ft).
  2. Reinstall the cylinder head with a new gasket.
    • Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt at point A and point B.
    • If either diameter is less than 10.8 mm (0.417 in), replace the cylinder head bolt.
    • Apply new engine oil to the threads and under the bolt heads of all cylinder head bolts.

Measure the diameter of each cylinder head bolt

 

  • Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 39 N·m (29 lb-ft). When using a preset click-type torque wrench, be sure to tighten slowly and do not overtighten. If a bolt makes any noise while you are torquing it, loosen the bolt and retighten it from the first step.

Torque the cylinder head bolts in sequence

 

  • After torquing, tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps (90° per step) using the sequence shown above. If you are using a new cylinder head bolt, tighten the bolt an extra 90°.

NOTE: Remove the cylinder head bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back to the second bullet to remeasure the bolt. Do not loosen it back to the specified angle.

tighten all cylinder head bolts in two steps

 

  1. Reinstall the rocker arm assembly and the camshafts.
  2. Reinstall the cam chain.
  3. Apply liquid gasket to the oil pan where it meets the cam chain case and to the inside edge of the threaded bolt holes. Install the cam chain case within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.

Apply liquid gasket

 

  1. Install the cam chain cover.

cam chain cover

 

  1. Reinstall the engine mount bracket and torque the bolts to 44 N·m (33 lb-ft).

engine mount bracket

 

  • Reinstall the engine side mount using new bolts and nut.

engine side mount

 

  1. Remove the engine hanger, and reinstall the subframe.

subframe

 

  1. Reconnect the power steering feed line to the subframe. Torque the bolt to 8 N·m (7.2 lb-ft).
  2. Adjust the valve clearance. Refer to the service manual for Valve Clearance Adjustment.

Valve Clearance
Intake: 0.21–0.25 mm (0.0083–0.0098 in)
Exhaust: 0.25–0.29 mm (0.0098–0.0114 in)
Specified Torque (Intake & Exhaust)
7 x 0.75 mm: 14 N·m (1.4 kgf·m, 10 lbf·ft)
Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.

  1. Reinstall the cylinder head cover.
  2. Reinstall the connecting pipe.
  3. Install the intake manifold using new gaskets.
  4. Reinstall the radiator hoses and the heater hoses 93. Reinstall the EVAP canister purge valve bracket.
  5. Reconnect the engine mount control solenoid connector, and the ground cables.
  6. Reconnect the fuel feed hose, and reinstall the quick-connect fitting cover.
  7. Reconnect the EVAP canister hose and the brake booster vacuum hose.
  8. Install new gasket from TWC to A-pipe.
  9. stall new gasket from TWC to A-pipe.
  10. Reinstall drive belt.

drive belt

 

  1. Fill the engine with coolant, using recovered coolant. Add new as needed.
  2. Fill the engine with oil.
  3. Do the battery terminal reconnection procedure.
  4. Crank the engine for about 5 seconds to prime the engine with oil pressure before plugging in the ignition coils.
  5. Reconnect the four ignition coil connectors 104. Do the idle learn procedure.

 

END.

 

ORDERING PISTONS

Every engine has some combination of A- and B-sized pistons. You can determine the sizes and their locations in the block by inspecting the markings on the timing chain end of the engine block or by looking at the pistons. If you look at the piston, the pistons have identifiers; “A” pistons are unmarked; “B” pistons are marked with a “B”. Make sure you order the appropriate number of each piston size before starting work.

ORDERING PISTONS

ORDERING PISTONS

 

2 Affected Products

Vehicle

MAKE MODEL YEAR
HONDA CR-V 2010-2011

 

1 Associated Document

Service Bulletin Document

A12-089
March 31, 2017
06118 Version 7

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?nhtsaId=10108323

SB-10108323-9340.pdf 3216.061KB

Loader Loading...
EAD Logo Taking too long?

Reload Reload document
| Open Open in new tab

Download [3.07 MB]

 

 

SaleBestseller No. 1
Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (5-Quart, Pack of 1)
Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (5-Quart, Pack of 1)
  • Full synthetic 0W-20 engine oil that is made with natural gas and designed for complete protection for top engine performance
  • Helps extend engine life and protects for up to 15 years or 500,000 miles, whichever comes first. Guaranteed* (see Warranty Information in Product Description).
  • Provides better fuel economy (based on the latest industry standards)
  • Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 keeps pistons up to 45% cleaner than the toughest industry standard (based on Sequence IIIH results)
  • No other leading synthetic oil provides better wear protection from friction (Based on Sequence IVA wear test using SAE 5W-30)
$41.13 −$17.35 $23.78 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
SaleBestseller No. 2
Castrol GTX Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil, 5 Quarts
Castrol GTX Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil, 5 Quarts
  • Superior wear protection on critical engine parts
  • 6X better wear protection than industry standards, as measured in the latest Sequence IVA test
  • Superior sludge cleaning and protection against new formation
  • 1.3X better sludge protection than industry standards, as measured in Sequence VH sludge test vs. API SP limits
  • Full synthetic formula provides thermal and oxidation stability
$26.27 −$2.31 $23.96 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
Bestseller No. 3
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20, 5 Quart
Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-20, 5 Quart
  • Mobil 1 Extended Performance full-synthetic motor oil 0W-20 helps protect critical engine parts for up to 20,000 miles between oil changes,* controlling oxidation to prevent oil breakdown and maintaining excellent viscosity
  • Utilizes Mobil 1’s Triple Action+ Formula to combine outstanding engine performance, protection, and cleanliness with the added benefit of power
  • Meets ILSAC GF-6 standards to help provide low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) and timing chain wear protection while keeping your engine clean and helping to improve your fuel economy
  • Helps extend engine life by working to prevent damaging deposits and sludge buildup
  • Provides excellent internal engine heat protection (up to 500 degrees F) and low temperature protection (to -40 degrees F)
$37.91
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
Bestseller No. 4
Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic SAE 0W-20 Motor Oil 5 QT
Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic SAE 0W-20 Motor Oil 5 QT
  • Advanced protection against the four main causes of engine breakdown: wear friction heat and deposits
  • 40% better wear protection vs. industry standards as tested in the Sequence IVB engine test
  • 25% better deposit protection with superior engine cleaning detergents as tested in the GMOD engine test
  • Full synthetic formula offers 24X stronger protection against engine-killing contaminants than the leading full synthetic motor oil
  • Meets or exceeds all requirements of ILSAC GF-6A, API SP, API SN with SN Plus, API SN, GM dexos 1 Gen 5
$45.00
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
SaleBestseller No. 5
Quaker State Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (5-Quart, Single Pack)
Quaker State Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (5-Quart, Single Pack)
  • Full synthetic 0W-20 motor oil provides strong engine performance and protection against deposits between oil changes
  • Provides improved fuel economy (based on the latest industry standard)
  • Designed to provide more performance with superior lubrication flow and pumpability at high and low temperatures (compared to Quaker State conventional and synthetic blend motor oils).
  • Formulated with high resistance to oxidation, keeping the oil fresher for longer.
  • Reduces friction to maximize horsepower (compared to Quaker State conventional and synthetic blend motor oils)
$35.58 −$12.61 $22.97 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
SaleBestseller No. 6
Castrol Edge 0W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quarts
Castrol Edge 0W-20 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quarts
  • 3X stronger against viscosity breakdown than leading full synthetic, based on Kurt Orbahn test in 5W-30 grade
  • 10X better high temperature performance, as measured in Sequence IIIH engine test vs. API SP test limit
  • 6X better wear protection, Protection for 10,000 miles between oil changes
  • 1.4X better sludge protection, as measured in Sequence VH engine test vs. API SP test limit
  • Meets ILSAC GF-6 to prevent low speed pre ignition (LSPI) and timing chain wear protection
$31.98 −$3.01 $28.97 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
SaleBestseller No. 7
Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 0W-20 5 QT
Valvoline Extended Protection Full Synthetic Motor Oil SAE 0W-20 5 QT
  • Ultimate protection against wear, friction, heat and deposits, the main reasons for engine breakdown
  • 24x stronger protection against engine-killing contaminants than the industry-leading full synthetic
  • Dual Defense Additive Technology helps keep your engine clean and running at peak performance for optimal fuel economy and performance
  • 10X stronger against oil breakdown and 50% greater wear protection than industry standards
  • Meets or exceeds all requirements of ILSAC GF-6A, API SP, API SN with SN Plus, API SN, dexos 1 Gen 6
$38.99 −$10.02 $28.97 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
SaleBestseller No. 8
Valvoline™ Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife™ Technology SAE 0W-20 Motor Oil 5 QT, (Model: 852399)
Valvoline™ Full Synthetic High Mileage with MaxLife™ Technology SAE 0W-20 Motor Oil 5 QT, (Model: 852399)
  • Full synthetic formula is engineered with Enhanced MaxLife Technology to prevent engine breakdown in vehicles with over 75,000 miles
  • Formulated with seal conditioners to prevent and treat oil leaks, Valvoline Full Synthetic High Mileage minimizes oil consumption and maximizes engine life
  • 50% better wear protection than the industry standard and 25% extra defense against deposits, sludge, corrosion and rust
  • Meets or exceeds all requirements of ILSAC GF-6A, API SP, API SN with SN Plus, API SN
  • American made and formulated, from the Original Motor Oil brand trusted for more than 150 years
$35.99 −$9.02 $26.97 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
Bestseller No. 9
Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil for Vehicles Over 75K Miles (5-Quart, Single)
Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil for Vehicles Over 75K Miles (5-Quart, Single)
  • Full synthetic 0W-20 engine oil designed for vehicles with over 70,000 miles that offers the same protection as SAE 5W-20 and is made with natural gas
  • Helps extend engine life and protects for up to 15 years or 500,000 miles, whichever comes first. Guaranteed* (see Warranty Information in Product Description).
  • Keeps pistons up to 45% cleaner than the toughest industry standard (based on Sequence IIIH results)
  • Provides unsurpassed wear protection for your engine (based on Sequence IVA wear test using SAE 5W-30)
  • Formulated to deliver less oil burn off than high mileage motor oils made from crude oil
$23.92 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping
SaleBestseller No. 10
Royal Purple ROY51020 API-Licensed SAE 0W-20 High Performance Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 qt.
Royal Purple ROY51020 API-Licensed SAE 0W-20 High Performance Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 qt.
  • Better wear protection
  • Increased fuel efficiency
  • Better protection of the expensive catalytic emission system
  • Improved compatibility with fuels containing ethanol
  • Superior corrosion protection
$47.24 −$13.46 $33.78 Amazon Prime
Buy on Amazon Price incl. tax, excl. shipping

Last update on 2024-06-21 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

This product presentation was made with AAWP plugin.

 

BufferCopyFlipboardHacker NewsLinkedInMessengerMixPinterestPocketPrintRedditSMSTelegramTumblrVKWhatsAppLineXing

Leave a Comment

Share to...
BufferCopyFlipboardHacker NewsLineLinkedInMessengerMixPinterestPocketPrintRedditSMSTelegramTumblrVKWhatsAppXing